Just last summer I found myself alone in Florence, living out my own "eat pray love" moment after a mother daughter trip fell through. Not so bad, I thought... It was as though I had just been whisked away to some culinary wonderland, and with no one to stop me, I was free to live a life of gluttonous, carbo-loading pleasure. Pastaaa, prosciutto, gelato, tartufo (the list goes on and on...), and after five days of intensive art history classes, I conjured up quite an appetite for slow Italian cooking. I fell in love; the florentine "spritz" and oven baked pizzas had become my favourite afternoon snack, and needless to say, I was already feeling nostalgic on my flight back.

With that in mind, you can imagine my excitement after having just landed on the runways of Trudeau, when my boyfriend picked me up from the airport and whisked me straight to the charmingly local, perfectly intimate Italian bar a vin, Dolcetto & Co, that had just opened its doors in my neighbourhood.

Dolcetto offers a helpful - and deeply flavourful - reminder of how simple Italian cheeses (think creamy burrata or fragrant boschetto al tartufo) prime the palate for a fantastic meal. They also get that a healthy selection of thinly sliced hams, like a plate of rich bresaola, homemade porcetta, and prosciutto di parma, make for the perfect, dynamic, start to any good dinner. After a plate of charcuterie, move to the antipasti, trying (you must!) their cream soaked gnocchi, with its perfect, buttery texture; it is so divine - I've had friends re-order this plate for dessert. And after you're done cleaning out the gnocchi dish, try your hand with some of their hand-made, oven-baked pizzas...my favourites are the carmelized onion and eggplant, prosciutto and arugula, and simple but always pleasurable margherita with burrata.

My only last recommendation would be to make sure the wine is flowing, the conversation is good, and the night is slow. Drinks at Dolcetto are good, so start (or even finish!) with a cocktail. Sit at the bar or at a window-side table for a perfect date. Move to the communal table if you're surrounded by good friends or family. Don't rush; enjoy the effortlessly sophisticated art of a good Italian meal. After all, that's what Dolcetto is all about.*

Dolcetto Bar a Vin Italien   |   151 Saint-Paul Ouest (corner Place Royal)   |   Montreal QC H2Y 1Z6   |   514-419-8522   |  

www.dolcettomontreal.com   

At Bocata Bar a Vin, flickering candlelight illuminates portrait-covered, thick-stone walls, giving a sense of romance to this solid neighbourhood joint. Being the second Old Montreal outpost from Roberto Barroco, Jeremie Falissard, and executive chef Benjamin Léonard (the threesome behind Barroco, situated just next door), Bocata hits familiar regional notes with its Spanish style menu.

As a starter, the Pata Negra Iberico wins top honours; it is a deliciously simple plate of delicate ham placed on garlic coated toast that has been moistened with the juices from a fresh tomato...and it is divine. Follow with duck and arugula salad (which is nutty, rich and organic), the half lobster and buckwheat (served with the most amazing anise flavoured gnocchi and truffle oil), and the bourguignon braised flatiron (perfectly cooked...), and you have the perfect winter dinner for two! Enjoy.

Bocata Bar a Vin  |   310 Rue Saint Paul Ouest   |   Montreal, QC H2Y 2A3   |   (514) 507-8727   |

www.bocata.ca

One definitive highlight that stems from late afternoon walks in the Plateau has become stopping in at the popular eatery Icehouse, where Nick Hodge et al. has served up traditional Texan fare in close quarters since 2011. This 20 or so seat restaurant (which easily doubles in dimension come summer with its terrace) is, like its food, appropriately cool, casual, and fun; there are no reservations, no dinnerware, and usually no utensils, making ones dining experience slightly more feral, or at least more hands on, than you'd otherwise expect.

At Icehouse, there are so many tasty dishes that always keep me coming back for more. Even come winter, when the corner resto is small, and parking along mountainous sidewalk snowbanks horrendous, I still demand that we go. Just last week I satisfied a heavy craving for their popcorn shrimp, a staple starter that is perfectly crunchy and coated with both sweet and mouth-wateringly citrus flavour. Another app that goes without saying is their crab cakes; not too soft yet delightfully moist, these go down like butter every time (see above).

Moving to your mains, I suggest the bucket of ribs or fried chicken for a classic group meal (particularly if you're M:F ratio is >1) or their grilled steak burrito and one of their tacos if you're limited to two. For drinks, the bourbon lemonade is a must; its dense lemon notes layered against smooth bourbon makes for the perfect compliment to everything on the menu. Enjoy!

Icehouse   |   51 Roy East (Corner St. Dominique)   |   Montreal, QC H2W 1L8   |   (514) 439-6691   |

Ahhhh the classics. The infamous institutions. The legendary landmarks. The restaurants, cafés and bakeries whose tradition we love, and whose line-ups we love to hate. Here are some of my favourites, although a few who I didn't include (Orange Julep, Café Italia, Beauty's) also deserve mention, as all of these classic little gems have helped shape Montreal into the great city it is today.

Schwartz’s Deli (est. 1928)

If you are a tourist visiting la Belle province, you’ve probably already heard about this place… 185746 times. I am not joking, literally everyone who finds out you are a visitor will advise you to go. Even if they, like me, haven’t been in years. And when you return, anyone who has ever been to Montreal will ask you if you’ve been. Schwartz’s is sort of like our Eiffel Tower, just less beautiful and covered with schmutz. It is synonymous with Montreal and one of our biggest attractions. And while I’m not obsessive about smoked meat, I do understand why my brother simply MUST make the trip every time he comes. Their famous smoked meat sandwich, barely held together by two slices of seedless rye, is slathered with mustard and must be hand sliced for the delicate meat to stay intact. And that meat – cured for 10 days with their famous mix of spices – is worth every last minute standing outside in their perennially long line ups.  But if you don’t want to wait to sit at the communal tables of their 84 year old establishment, go to their 4 year old take-out shop next door for fresh smoked meat on the go!

Schwartz’s Deli   |    3895 St-Laurent blvd   |   Montreal, H2W 1X9   |   (514) 842-4813   |   www.schwartzsdeli.com   |  

The Original Fairmount Bagel Bakery (est. 1919)

The first bagel bakery in Montreal spent thirty years on the boulevard before moving to its current location, a two story brick cottage in Montreal’s Jewish quarter where founder Isadore Shlafman moved in 1949. As the story goes, Shlafman occupied the second floor with his family and built the main floor brick oven himself such that “when Grandfather Isadore went to work, he went downstairs and baked the bagels right there in his house.” Still family-owned and using Grandpa Isadore’s original recipe, Fairmount remains one of the best places to pick up a warm bag of the densely sweet and sesame-flecked delicacies fresh from the wood-fired oven.

Fairmount Bagel   |   74 Ave Fairmount O   |   Montreal, QC H2T 2M1   |   (514) 272-0667   |   www.fairmountbagel.com   |

St. Viateur Bagel (est. 1957)

The other popular bagel shop in Montreal is the more open concept St. Viateur bagel, housed on the street that bears its name. Opened by Myer Lewkowicz in 1957, the St. Viateur business has grown at a marked pace, with 4 shops reportedly producing up to 12,000 bagels a day (and now available at many Montreal grocery stores as well.) The dough, made from malt, egg and honey, is dipped into honey-sweetened water before baking in the wood-fired oven, where flames seal the sugary glaze and give the bagel its marble toasted appearance.

St. Viateur Bagel   |   263 Rue St Viateur Ouest   |   Montreal, QC, H2V 1Y1   |   (514) 276-8044   |   www.stviateurbagel.com   |

Wilensky’s Light Lunch (est. 1932)

I have such fond recollections of Wilensky’s and hoisting my pudgy little self up on to their counter at the tender age of four. If it wasn’t for their cherry cola and the infallible Special that followed, I don’t know what my childhood memories of Montreal would’ve consisted of. Opened in 1932 by Moe Milensky, the luncheonette and soda fountain originally contained a cornerstore, barbershop, and delicatessen in one. But when a client asked Moe to “make [him] something special,” the famous sandwich, consisting of one slice of bologna, two slices salami and a small dollop of mustard pressed between a cornmeal dusted pletzl, was born. Originally 12¢ and now just under $4, the special is best served with a glass of cherry cola and a side of pickles.  And while Moe is no longer around, his beautiful wife Ruth (see tribute to her here) or their daughter Sharon will greet you at the nine- seat counter that hasn’t changed a bit for as long as I can remember.  How’s that for nostalgia?

Wilensky’s   |   34 avenue Fairmount Ouest   |   Montréal, QC H2T 2M1   |   (514) 271-0247   |   Wilenksy's facebook page   |

Moishes Steakhouse (est. 1938)

The oldest and most respected steakhouse in Montreal, tucked in on St. Laurent Boulevard, was founded by Moishe Lighter in 1938, when he originally named it Romanian Paradise. Rumor has it that Moishe, a Romanian immigrant who worked at the restaurant's predecessor bussing tables, won the restaurant in a card game some time after. The name was changed simply to "Moishe's" after WWII, and has continued to be a staple of Montreal culinary tradition for decades. Prime Ministers, celebrities, and local patrons can be seen eating here, where the menu and extensive wine list garner praise, including a nomination to Forbe's "Best Steakhouses in the World" List. 

Moishe's Steakhouse   |   3961 Boulevard St-Laurent   |   Montreal, QC   |   (514) 845-3509   |   www.moishes.ca   |

 Eaton's Ninth Floor (est. 1931)

This art deco wonder, "the" restaurant in its day, was commissioned by Lady Eaton herself and designed by Jacques Carlu. Its gorgeous, streamlined interior was thought to have been inspired by the transatlantic ocean liner Île-de-Frances, on which Lady Eaton travelled. The space, featuring sky high ceilings, large Italian alabaster lamps and murals painted by the Carlu's wife, was protected as a historic site shortly after Eaton's closed in 1999. Sadly, it has been moth-balled since, and efforts to petition for its reopening have fallen short. I remember dining there as a child with my Grandparents, who enjoyed the five star service and afternoon tea. Many hope to see its revival soon, once some wise restaurateur finally decides to capitalize on this beautiful landmark. It is said that, on its opening day, more than a fifteen hundred people queued for lunch - I can only imagine how many of our  grandmothers would love to do so again. 

For more information, visit Art Deco Montreal or Heritage Montreal.

Sometimes there is nothing better than Friday night take out, cheap wine and a good movie, or a Saturday afternoon picnic on the mountain, complete with fresh food at arms reach...so here, I am proud to present, a post on the all powerful <trumpets> take out meal.

For fresh, raw fare, try Crudessence, a veggie/vegan friendly eatery that just opened it's second location on Mackay (the original is on Rachel) last year. From their chalkboard, take your pick between organic salads (the classic "crudessence salad" is a favourite), sandwiches and seasonal mains, all of which include some of the most taste-provoking ingredients I've ever laid eyes on; coconut feta, rosemary nachos, pistachio pesto and cooked quinoa are just of few of the unusual and tasty elements that makeup this memorable menu. And, if you fall in love as much as I did with the place, you can pick up their newly released cookbook (see above) or consider taking cooking classes at their living foods academy, which offers the basics on everything from juicing, wheatgrasses and cleansing foods to the essentials of kombucha and fermentation here.

Crudessence   |   2157 Rue Mackay   |   Montreal, QC, H3G 2J2   |   (514) 664-5188   |   www.crudessence.com

A favourite of mine for a few years now, I've been reluctant to share this absolute gem of a sushi spot with the world of my (probably like five total...) readers. But alas, I give in! You have been loyal, and it was for places like this that I made chic little city in the first place, so now, I bring you one of the most amazing places for take out sushi EVER....Tri Express. Owned by Tri Du (formerly the chef at Treehouse on St. Laurent) and nestled deep in plateau proper, this tiny little corner store of a restaurant seats just short of 20 and is always bustling. Whenever we go we get their chef salad, famous sushi pizza "l'inattendue", new style salmon sashimi a la Tri, and a few of his rolls. Its always incredible, especially for take out on a warm summer night, or to snuggle up at home with on a cold snowy Sunday...

Tri Express   |   1650 Laurier est   |   Montréal, H2J 1J2   |   (514) 528-5641   |   triexpressrestaurant.com

The Satay Brothers and their infamous pork buns take the cake for inducing some of the worst food cravings I've experienced since McKiernan closed and I began Johnny Cakes withdrawal.  Alex and Matt Winnicki, "Brothers since 1983," opened their Atwater market stand earlier this summer with word quickly catching on that their Singaporean styled street food was the best new thing in town. Served on adorable vintage and traditional asian dishware at the Atwater market picnic benches with great music and service to match, its no wonder why this place already has a huge following. Note: if you want to try the pork buns you MUST go early, as they are often gone before the day ends. However, if you arrive too late (like me, always...), don't fret; share their Mung Bean salad with that day's satays (usually pork, beef or shrimp), and order a Laksa Lemak soup or Gado-Gado salad for a main. Note that the Laksa is super spicy yet addictive; I ordered it last weekend and it was so good that I literally could not stop eating despite physically aspirating the soup and coughing forcefully in between ravenous slurps... mildly embarrassing but delicious, none the less!

Satay Brothers   |   138 Avenue Atwater   |   Montreal, QC H4C 2G3    |   (514) 661-6983   |   www.sataybrothers.com

By 2011 I had literally exhausted the discussion of how we need a Dean and Deluca style grocery store in downtown Montreal. Luckily, the subject has been put to rest with the discovery of this lovely little neighbourhood epicerie, Alexis Le Gourmand. Situated on Rue St. Jacques near de la Montagne, this gem of a grocery store is housed in an old red brick warehouse style building and has a cool, modern market feel. Specializing in gourmet pret-a-manger lunch and dinner fare that is all made on site (just take a peak to the back of the store through their glassed-in kitchen), it has become the perfect place to grab a few quick meals after work. Think bacon wrapped asparagus, mushroom and truffle risotto and coconut shrimp and vegetables, all under $10 each. While you're there, also make sure to peruse through their selection of artisanal breads (I always get two of the blue cheese baguette!), organic fruits and vegetables, and the selected fine groceries that fill their stainless steel shelves. Lastly, towards the cash, check out their selection of meats and cheeses, many of which are local and come in perfect small sizes at less than $4 each.

Alexis Le Gourmand   |   1405 St Jacques   |   Montréal, QC, H3C1H2   |   514-935-7676   

Mandy's Express is the online ordering and delivery service of Mandy's Salads, the well-known Montreal salad bar with practically a cult-following. Originally housed in the back of Mimi & Coco's Westmount store and now available at their Laurier location as well, Mandy's specializes in lunchtime gourmet salads, sandwiches and wraps to go. While I like to choose at random from their many options, I must admit their December and Westmount salads are a favourite. Healthy, delicious and easy to order (with delivery dates that can be arranged days or weeks in advance!), mandysxp.ca is a great link to have bookmarked in your browser.

Mandy's Salads   |   201 Laurier ave   |   Montréal, QC H2T 2N9   |   AND   |   4927 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, Westmount, QC H3Z 1H2   |   (514) 877-9997   |   www.mandysxp.ca

The group behind Baldwin and Whisky Cafe unveil their first downtown outpost with a certifiably chic, 1920's styled restaurant whose name pays tribute to the historic park just across the street. Fabricated with the history of the tavern in mind (estabilished in 1927, this restaurant used to be part of the Dominion Square Hotel, which burned down in a large fire after the great depression), the interior still houses "the original chandelier, the colored terrazzo floors, and the ceramic walls that are covered with the coats of arms of the provinces of the Dominion of Canada." 

At Dominion Square Tavern, the crowd tends to be young, artsy and hip, with a sprinkling of cute older couples (my favourite!) in the mix. I myself was first introduced to the restaurant last year by one of my closest friends, a beautiful girl who is notably classic in both dress and decorum. Since the introduction, I've had a genuine love affair with the place; I adore going there with friends for drinks (do try their 'Gin Julep' or 'Royal Gin Fizz'), or with my boyfriend, who introduced me to their Absinthe experience - done in the traditional manner with dissolved sugar and ice water - last week, which I loved. 

Given its proximity to downtown and the fact that it is steps away from the cinema, I highly recommend this place for a night of dinner and a movie. The food is yummy and comforting but not too heavy, with their moules frites and beef striploin being my favourite dishes so far. I would also love to come here on a random Friday and Saturday, dressed to the nines and pretending to be another version of myself that existed in the roaring twenties, when the restaurant was in its infancy. It really is that kind of magical place where you feel like you are transported to another time, with the music, decor, staff and whole atmosphere playing the part well.

Dominion Square Tavern  

 |   1243 Metcalfe   |   Montreal, QC H3B 2V5   |   (514) 564-5056   |  

www.dominiontavern.com

Photo credits: www.dominiontavern.com



The dream team behind this buzzing new restaurant, otherwise known for their success at Club Chasse et Peche, Bice and Bu, have turned this discrete space - tucked into the bottom floor of an old townhome facing Jeanne Mance Park - into a happening culinary gem seemingly overnight. With low ceilings and dark, moody tones anchoring the decor, you'll be witness to the graphic contrast of shiny metallic sheets lining the walls and overhead beams, as well as back-lit aquatic murals by Canadian artist Genevieve Cadeaux. 

Not suprisingly, executive chef Claude Pelletier and Yasu Okazaki (formerly of Bice) make the dining options equally notable. We dined here two weeks after it opened, and the cooking was already tight and seamless in presentation. I started with the scallop, avocado, orange, asperagus and beet salad, (which, I would say, rivals the slaw at Susur Lee's), and followed with the pork shank, scallop and creamy polenta, which was divine. Lastly, my boyfriend and I shared the Bison filet and a side of onion rings. Everything was mouth-watering, and the wine pairings recommended by seasoned Sommelier Patrick St. Vincent made the experience at this promising new restaurant all the more enjoyable.

Le Filet  

|   219 Ave du Mont Royal Ouest   |   Montreal, QC, H2T 2Y6   |

(514) 360-6060

www.lefilet.ca

One minor thing of note: the acoustics (at least when we dined here in late February) were not the best. Just be warned that you may be shouting across the table at your dining partner; and that you should dine early in the evening (or amply late) in the event of a sore throat!  

It is my opinion that the words "Asian Fusion" applied to the culinary arts almost always represent restaurants that are, by definition, supremely trendy and wildly expensive... (Pershing Hall in Paris is the prototypical example). And while I once loved drowning in Litchee Martinis, I find I'm much less tolerant of "the crowd" these days and in want of charming little restaurants that serve delightfully good food and are almost full by my shamefully early 8:30 reservation. It is for this reason that I was surprised when, for our two year anniversary, my boyfriend took me to Biron and I fell in love with the menu. 

Perhaps it was the fact that Biron sounds so...well, French, that the Oriental influence took me entirely by surprise. But the surprise was well received; we took the 5 course menu and asked for some wine pairings, and each plate was as good as the next...inventive, but not too contrived. 

The restaurant is named after its owner and chef, David Biron, who has worked among the likes of Charlie Trotter in Chicago and William Ledeuil in Paris, as well as some local favourites (Splendido's David Lee, Toque's Normand Laprise, and Soto). Situated in the Village, the restaurant's modern yet cozy interior features an open counter kitchen, exposed brick and raw wood floors.  

At Biron, you can order a la carte or do the 5 or 7 course menu. Also, they apparently serve an excellent brunch, and though I haven't been, I'm planning on exploring the deco/retro furniture stores on Amherst soon enough, and will definitely be stopping in early one weekend. 

Restaurant Biron  

|   1429, rue Amherst   |   Montréal, QC   |   H2L 3L2   |

(514) 528-1429

www.restaurantbiron.com

Well-known chef Laurent Godbout (Version, La Fabrique) mixes a comfortable and relaxed decor with complex and creative dishes to make for a wonderful dining experience at Chez L'epicier. Across from the historic Marche Bonsecours, Chez L'epicier, along with its neighbour Chasse et Peche, stand out as two of the best restaurants in the city, let alone Old Montreal.

While the food at Chez L'epicier is quite experimental (sometimes almost Pierre Gagnaire-esque,) the wait staff are incredibly knowledgeable and will happily detail every last ingredient that culminates in the plate's - usually very strong - presentation. For a light weekday dinner, I love starting with one of their tasty soups or purees, and then moving to another entree. As a main, their poached salmon is a classic, though I love their filet mignon with whisky an cinnamon sauce. And for dessert, please do try their medley of creme brulees....mmm, so good.

Chez L'epicier doubles as a wine bar, so predictably, the wine list is vast. If you don't already do so, here is the place to also ask for suggestions when pairing wine with food; the staff are friendly and are happy to offer recommendations by the glass.

Chez L'epicier   |   311 rue St-Paul est   |   Montréal, QC H2Y 1H3   |   (514) 878-2232  

www.chezlepicier.com

Open Thursdays and Fridays for lunch, and all week long for dinner from 5-10 pm.

For the menu at Juni, Ikematsu marries traditional Japanese with French and Western cuisines, creating unique dishes of impeccable presentation. The service is friendly and the drink menu is vast (ask if they have any unfiltered or sparkling sake, both are wonderful). If you're hungry, try their tasting menu, it is brilliant. If you're looking for something lighter, order for a few appetizers (their red tuna tartare with oyster mushrooms and truffle oil is unbelievable every time) and sushi to share. Picking at least one item from their special rolls menu is highly recommended... and while the food here is not cheap, you'll always be happy you went.  

    Jun i    |   156 Ave Laurier Ouest (corner St-Urbain)   |   Montréal, Québec, H2T 2N7   |   (514) 276- 5864   |     

www.juni.ca